If you arrive in Bangkok at night, you smell the city before you see it. The smog is not thick, but it taints the air you breathe just enough to let you know that you have left the first world behind and have entered an alternate reality. As you make your way from the airport to the hotel (most likely in a van without seat belts going 140 kilometers an hour down a frenetic highway where cars cut in and out of lanes with little regard for the cars already there), you might first notice the large buildings rising up in no particular order around the city or the bridges with their high, glittering gilt facades. Or, you might notice that Bangkok is as different as can be from Tokyo with its pristine streets, careful drivers, and busy workers buzzing to work with the same sense of purpose as bees around a hive. Bangkok is exactly what you would expect from this old city of brothels and seedy massage parlors--it is wide-open.
Our family did not begin our Bangkok adventure in the city. Our fast-driving van quickly whisked us from the airport to the protected Marriott, located on the quiet side of the Chaopraya River. Rather like you might imagine one of those old colonial strongholds against the natives, the Marriott is a little oasis where the only "natives" you see are the ones carrying poolside drinks out on little white napkin-covered trays to the white bodies burning in the sun or the ever-smiling and helpful concierge ready to direct you to the best restaurants or tourist sites. (Or, a few girls, "nieces" of some of the older gentlemen staying at the Marriott).
The Marriott ferry that takes you from this side of the Chaopraya to the other where the main city lies waiting.
Part of the Marriott decor. Although pretty cheap due to its location and locale, the Marriott was very upscale and beautifully decorated throughout. Much of the hotel was outside and featured elephants and other Thai themed statues.
After the breakfast buffet by the river, Sid and Sam enjoy the morning.
Sid and Sam walking back from the pool (a huge, crystal clear pool surrounded by plants, flowers, and of course the pool attendants offering warmed towels, drinks, and food) via the bridge.
Sam.
Graham at dinner out on the patio overlooking the river.
On Christmas Night we ate at the international buffet which also featured Thai dancing and entertainment. It was very beautiful as the deck overlooks the river. The food was also delicious--much better than most of what is available in Japan!
One of the dancers at the show.
Sam enjoying the show.
More dancers.
Another dancer.
The dancers were fascinating. They reenacted scenes from a Buddhist history featuring the king, a demon king, and various other characters. See the video below for more:
We returned from the show to find a visitor waiting in our room. We had not invited him, but there he was....
Not quite Bobby, but pretty cute.
The next day we decided to venture out from the hotel--although it was quite alluring to think about sitting around the pool all day. We went to see the bridge over the River Kwai (maybe you have seen the film?). This is the place where many allied soldiers (POWs) lost their lives during WWII when the Japanese forced them to labor on a bridge. The bridge itself was interesting--and quite dangerous. As with so many things in Thailand, you visit it at your own risk. You can walk on the bridge (which is still in use as a railroad crossing), but there are few safeguards to keep you from plummeting off the bridge into the dirty water below. In fact, I heard a tour guide instruct her group that people routinely fall into the river and to be careful. Perhaps more interesting than the bridge, however, were the "Death Museums." Essentially these are set up for tourists and different tour companies go to different museums. The museum we went to was altogether unsatisfactory. Part of the museum was essentially local vendors set up to sell their goods and the history was not quite accurate. The museum did, however, have a very obvious anti-Japanese bent. The best part of the museum was the big lizard that Sam got to play with at the entrance.
Well-maintained cemetary for those who lost their lives building the bridge (many British and Dutch soldiers died and this cemetary is maintained by them, not by Thailand).
Setting out on the "Death Railroad"--we actually went over the bridge over the River Kwai.
The lizard at the Death Museum.
Exhibit at the Death Museum--not really any explanation--after all, too much reading might mean little time to spend your baht at the vendors.
Bridge over the River Kwai.
Another view of the bridge.
Picture of the cemetary right after the war.
Do you want to hold a tiger or a leopard kitten? You can do this on the way to the bridge over the River Kwai for just a few baht. We did not, but Sam wanted to.
Picture taken by Oi, our guide, on the death railroad.
Sid.
Lunch on the river.
Graham and Sid ride an elephant. At one point, their elephant got upset and trumpeted. It was scary. I do not think our little barefoot boys could have stopped a stampede.
Melinda on the cane boat on the river.
Rickety bridge still used by the locals over the river.
More adventures to follow in the next post!!!!!
